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Independent Sub-Zero specialists · Fleming Island, Clay County

Monday – Friday 8:00am – 6:00pm Call (904) 201-3304

Service

What we repair

We work Sub-Zero refrigeration and nothing else. Below is the full range, with the symptoms that most often bring us out to each one.

A meter probe resting on a circuit board inside the base of a refrigerator cabinet, loom wires crossing the frame.
Seven kinds of call. All of them start at the same open grille.
Built-in refrigeration

Built-in refrigeration

The full-height built-in units that sit flush with the cabinetry — warm boxes, running fans, frost, water on the floor, doors that stopped sealing.

  • The fresh food side is warm but the freezer still feels cold
  • The unit runs constantly and never seems to cycle off
  • Frost is building on the back wall of the freezer
  • Water is pooling under the crisper drawers

Built-ins warm on one side — what we check first

Integrated columns

Integrated columns

Single-purpose refrigerator, freezer and wine columns that hide completely behind cabinet panels — one box warm, one still cold, and no visible grille to check.

  • The refrigerator column is warm but the freezer column next to it is fine
  • The column runs much longer than it used to
  • There is condensation on the cabinet panel around the door
  • The door swings back open instead of pulling itself shut

Columns warm with the freezer fine — what we check first

Undercounter refrigeration

Undercounter and drawers

Refrigerator drawers, beverage centres and undercounter freezers built into islands, butler's pantries and lanai kitchens — small boxes in tight, hot cabinets.

  • The drawers feel cool but nothing inside is properly cold
  • The unit is icing up along the top of the drawer opening
  • It runs constantly and the cabinet around it feels warm
  • A drawer no longer glides and will not sit closed

Drawers cool but not cold — what we check first

Wine storage

Wine storage

Wine units drift before they fail. Uneven zones, a glass door that sweats through August, a fan that runs and runs, and racks that no longer sit true.

  • The upper zone reads several degrees warmer than it is set to
  • The glass door fogs or sweats on humid days
  • The unit hums or vibrates more than it used to
  • The interior light stays on or will not come on at all

Wine zones drifting warm — what we check first

Ice makers

Ice makers

Standalone ice machines and the ice maker inside a built-in freezer — no ice at all, a bin that never fills, cubes that come out hollow, or water where it should not be.

  • The ice maker has stopped completely and the bin is empty
  • Cubes are coming out small, hollow or cloudy
  • The machine makes ice but the cubes fuse into one block in the bin
  • There is water on the floor in front of the unit

Ice makers that stopped — what we check first

Built-in refrigeration

Sealed system work

Refrigerant, compressors, condensers and evaporators — the part of the appliance that cannot be diagnosed from a symptom list and should never be guessed at.

  • The unit runs without stopping and never reaches temperature
  • Both compartments have gone warm at the same time
  • The freezer holds but the refrigerator side has been climbing for weeks
  • There is a hissing or gurgling that has changed in character

Runs constantly, never cold — what we check first

Built-in refrigeration

Doors, seals and panels

The mechanical half of a refrigerator. Gaskets that have gone hard, hinges that have dropped, closers that stopped closing and custom panels that no longer sit flush.

  • The door does not pull itself shut over the last inch
  • Frost keeps returning on the back wall of the freezer
  • The gasket feels hard and no longer springs back
  • There is condensation on the cabinet face around the door

Doors that will not pull shut — what we check first

The boundary

Refrigeration, and nothing that heats

Everything this shop does sits on the cold side of a kitchen: Sub-Zero built-in refrigerators, integrated refrigerator and freezer columns, undercounter drawers and beverage centres, wine storage, and ice makers. That is the entire list, and it is the entire business.

We do not service heating or air conditioning. No furnaces, no heat pumps, no air handlers, no mini-splits and no ductwork. That is a separate trade with its own licensing, and a call about a house that will not cool belongs with an HVAC contractor rather than with us.

The line is worth drawing because the two jobs meet at the wall. A condenser has to reject its heat into the room it stands in, so a kitchen that runs warm will shorten the life of the appliance in it — and we will tell you when that is what we are looking at. Fixing the room, though, belongs to another trade.

Price bands

What does each kind of repair cost?

One book for all seven, because the part decides the figure rather than the cabinet it came out of. The service page for each prints the bands that actually apply to it.

Completed repairs, parts and labour together. The diagnostic visit is credited toward whichever line the job lands on.
Work Typical range
$80 diagnostic visit $80
Door gasket or seal replacement $250–$650
Evaporator or condenser fan motor $250–$600
Defrost heater, thermostat or sensor $260–$630
Ice maker, water valve or supply line $250–$620
Electronic control board $420–$840
Compressor or sealed-system repair $870–$2,460

Ranges, not quotes: the firm figure is written down after the diagnosis and nothing is ordered or billed until you have approved it. On this page the work we describe runs from $80 for the visit to about $2,460 at the top of the band above. The whole book of bands is on the pricing page.

Terms

The same on every job

A flat $80 covers the visit and the diagnosis. It is credited toward the repair if you go ahead with the work.

You get a written estimate before any part is ordered or any labour is billed. Nothing proceeds without your approval.

Labour is warranted for 90 days and parts for 365 days from the date of the repair. Genuine OEM parts throughout.

Asked and answered

Questions before you pick a page

Which page should I start on?
The one that matches the cabinet rather than the symptom, because the same symptom means different things in different boxes. Frost on a full-height built-in, on an integrated column and in an undercounter drawer sends us to three different places, and each page sets out what we check first.
Is the diagnostic the same for every kind of unit?
The fee is: $80 flat, covering the visit and the whole diagnostic sequence, credited toward the repair. The sequence itself is not. A wine unit is checked against a probe, a column against its air path, a built-in against the two setpoints it is trying to hold at once.
What do the repairs themselves cost?
The book runs from $250–$650 for a door seal to $870–$2,460 for sealed-system work, with fans, defrost parts, water valves and electronic controls in between. Each service page prints the bands that apply to it, and the pricing page carries all of them at once.
Customer feedback

What owners said afterwards

4.3 out of 5 across 62 customer reviews. Read every one of them.

The undercounter unit in the island had been running without stopping and the surrounding cabinetry was warm. The front vent path was packed with dust and pet hair, and he cleared the whole route.

Casimir N.2026-05-14

The glass door fogged every humid afternoon and water was collecting on the lowest rack. The catch had gone out of adjustment so the door never drew fully in. He set it and fitted a new seal.

Sorrel J.2026-09-01

The unit was running non stop and never quite reaching its setting. He weighed in the charge properly after the repair instead of guessing on gauge pressure, which the last firm did not bother with.

Alaric M.2026-06-27